Fiera di Rimini, a trade fair company (and producers of Pianeta Birra (Planet Beer) and the Italian Microbrewers Association (Unionbirrai Microbirrifici) sponsored and hosted my intensive 8 day immersion into the world of Italian beer culture and craft brewing. Italy, a country that seems forever planted with vineyards, enjoys a beverage culture deeply immersed in its wine and food. However with the per capita consumption of beer in Italy growing along with 30% of beer consumption coming from imported products, the small but growing number of Italian craft brewers are romancing the notion that Italian culture and cuisine is an absolutely perfect complement to specialty craft brewed beers. It is worth noting that the root of the word romance comes from Rome.
There are perhaps 50 microbrewers/brewpubs operating in Italy today. That's up from less than 10 two years ago. The numbers are growing. Brewpub and microbrewery equipment manufacturers from Canada, Italy, Germany and Austria were present at the Pianeta Birra trade show February 5- 8. The most pressing concern of the small group of craft brewers present and who hosted me through their association Unionbirrai Microbirrifici was the quality of the beer. There are not many (if any) Italian brewing schools and access to Italian brewing text books are few. With the gold-rush mentality of many new operations throughout the country, the concern and knowledge of quality has become second to the simplified idea that anyone can brew beer from a recipe. Where have we heard this before?
My presentations on two separate days focused not only on the importance of quality control but of market development for the specialty and craft brewing segment in a developing/evolving beer culture such as Italy. Three American craft beers and 5 Italian craft beers were served to emphasize several points.
A specialty beer means different things to different cultures. Microbreweries or large international companies can brew a specialty beer. The market that the product is in defines it.
The name "craft brewed beer" has been popularized in the American beer industry only in the past 5 years with the intent to preserve both the distinction of beer brewed by small microbreweries, and all-malt and specialty beers brewed by the breweries that market their products in small, special and niche markets.
The industry tends to always want to define itself. But the consumers will choose to buy products based on the broader image that it perceives. Self-defining terminology does not alone lead to identity and success. Microbreweries and small companies specializing in unique products must go beyond terminology to appeal to the enthusiasm of consumers.
An important consideration is to maintain the market once you have developed it. To achieve this your small company must develop its brand. What several of the 1,300+ American small breweries have failed to do is develop their brand identity and their company image. The companies that are strong, stable or still growing have good brands and are perceived favorably in the marketplace. It is a truth that consumers do not buy beer alone for its taste qualities. They also want to feel an affinity with the brand. When times are good, you can't keep up with production, you don't have the time to promote your brand - BE CAREFUL. This is the most important time to build your brand. You will need the momentum of your brand and company image when the growth inevitably slows and competition increases. Don't underestimate what brand equity brings to your company in terms of long-term success.
Companies that want to be small and produce beers that are neither distinctive nor special cannot succeed. They have not succeeded anywhere in the world. If you want to be small you must develop your brands, image and produce beer that is high quality and distinctively appealing to the consumer.
It is extraordinarily difficult to grow a specialty beer market in a market that is not mature, that is not saturated or that is growing at an extraordinary rate.
In a market that is poised for developing a "craft beer" culture, the opportunity can be taken advantage only if the consumer becomes educated. The consumer must see that there is a choice of special and unique products and that these products have value. That these products are of the highest quality and that as a consumer being associated with drinking "craft brewed" beer, it is "cool." It is okay to like these new directions. This education is an ongoing process. It never ends. Tomorrow's consumers know nothing about craft-specialty beers and its culture.
Craft Beer-microbrewers should realize that the quality of their beer is the most important factor to their long-term success. You cannot compromise on the quality of your beer.
Your competitors are not the large brewing companies that are producing light lagers. They are all the other unique products and brands of beverages that consumers will be exposed to in the beverage marketplace. Ask the question: What will people drink?
Your customers are not the people who are looking for the cheapest beer. Your customers are those that have discretionary money and those that you've educated to know that spending a little more money on quality beer is good value.
Once you have begun to gain the confidence of your consumer you will also need to establish and win the confidence of your government. It's attitude about beer and brewing will be pivotal to your long-term success. Many a craft brewing company in other countries have failed because of government attitudes about alcohol and high taxation. Present your image to your consumer, country and culture in a positive way.
Visiting several microbreweries and brewpubs in north central Italy proved to me that the core of the Italian craft beer movement has a champion for all craft brewers with Unionbirrai Microbirrifici and their leaders Agostino Arioli (Vice President) and Guido Taraschi (President). With their concern for quality and helping each other achieve a positive image for their developing market, all Italian craft brewers would do well to come together, assist each other and develop their market together.
| some photos of Charlie Papazian's
last visit at the"Birrificio" Click to Enlarge |
 |
Just
east of Torino (Turin), in Marinone outside of Como, Agostino Arioli and
his brother Stefano founded Birrificio Italiano(www.birrificio.it) brewpub
and restaurant in 1997 with 8 other partners. In two years production has
grown from 400 hl to 700 hl where all beer sales are from the premises
All beers sold on premises are house beers and most are bottom fermented.
Agostino designed and had built locally his 3 hl brewhouse. A new 6 hl system
will be installed later this year. All his beers are uniquely Italian -
they are variations on traditional themes. Agostino wants to offer his beer
in Enotecas these are a uniquely Italian institution, being organized
extensions of the government as wine and food tasting "schools." Most of
the offerings are currently wine. There is no beer. But now that there are
noteworthy beers being made, Agostino hopes to introduce beer culture to
Italy through this educational venue. For more information:
Agostino Arioli
Birrificio Italiano Via Castello, 51
22070 Lurago Marinone (CO)
Italy Tel: +.39.031.895450
FAX: +39.031.352.0893
www.birrificio.it
Tasting Note:Most beers at Birrificio Italiano are lager beers with nicknames, served on draft or bottled (some bottle-conditioned):
Prima - (L' ingannatrice - The cheater; "who is like a woman who is a liar beware"; it is a milder taste- you think it is light, but it is 6%). A soft caramel personality dominates this popular brown lager. A sweet twist to the German "dunkel" tradition. Crθme caramel is often used to describe the qualities, so close to butterscotch but not. Produced with caramel malts but an extra boil time gives this heady lager its special character. Caramunich, Carapils, Munich, and Pils malts are used to brew this complex well-balanced beer.
Amber Shock ( L' impevedible - "That which is unexpected") At 7% alcohol Amber Shock is lager fermented and lager conditioned. Only available in elegant 1 liter bottle-conditioned packages for the customer who comes to the brewery. It is considered the breweries most "special" beer and the most "mythical" because it isn't always available. A full malt and toffee-like flavor creates the overture to flavor and then complimented by very fruity rose, apricot and cherry notes. With a few minutes of breathing after serving the slight sulfur notes dissipate. The result is a remarkably playful and complex beer that is light on the palate.
Tipo Pils ( Autoconscienza - "The self consciousness; when you finish drinking it you will have reached a state of self consciousness"). With a rich dense head this is every bit the clean, crisp, refreshing and flavorful tradition of a Bavarian-style Pilsener South of the Alps!
Bibock (La Prepotenza - "Strength and power as from a goat; Enabling one to do what they want to do; Asking yourself: How do you get in touch with the Bibock?") An Italian creation; an amber "Italian bock." 6.2% with more hops than a traditional bock, along with the rich maltiness usually evident in the German tradition. Aroma is reminiscent of fresh rising bread dough. Its maltiness is complimented with a unique apricot character in flavor and aroma. German Hallertau and Perle hops are used for aroma. Also available in take-away 2 liter bottles.
Weiss Beer (L' Mirage - "A dream of a woman taking a bath in a tub of Weiss Beer") Seasonal brew, not available in February 2000.
Dunkel Weizen (Voo Du L' Originia "The original because all original styles were dark") Seasonal brew, not available in February 2000.
2000 (La Birra Terzo Millennio- The beer of the third millennium) At 6.5% alcohol this is currently Birrificio Italian's only ale, though it is bottle conditioned with lager yeast. A light brown ale, plum-like and dry with a balanced soft, well balanced cocoa and roasted malt character. Served in a large robust glass requiring two hands to carry beer to the mouth. A glass with a purpose. To drink deliberately with depth and balance... this is Italian beer poetry and "moves towards the new millennium for Italian beer," proclaims Agostino.